Your pup will forever be your baby, but he may need to come to terms with an actual baby. It's tough enough to teach human siblings to accept such a major change in their lives; getting your canine to welcome a new baby requires patience and foresight. Taking the time to make your dog feel at ease will ensure a happy home life for you, your pet, and your new baby.
Start Early
As soon as you find out about the baby, start changing how you interact with your current "baby." It will break your heart a little to do this, but try to reduce the acknowledgment you give your dog. Of course you won't neglect him, but you must remind him that you are the pack leader. He can't command your attention by pawing or barking. Breaking him of such habits now means he won't associate the new baby with reduced attention.
If you have a separate room for a nursery and choose to keep your dog from the room, bar him from it early so he'll become used to it as an off-limits place. If you prefer to accustom your dog to the baby's room, make a place for him to lie down and praise him effusively for using it. Teach him which place is his and which is the baby's; otherwise, you may one day find a toddler in the dog bed and a sheepish-looking hound in the crib.
Give Him Exposure
Babies make a fuss sometimes, and dogs who are unused to infants may wonder why you're cuddling a fire alarm. Shouldn't you be barking as he is? Acclimate him to babies. Ask relatives or friends with babies to visit. Take your dog to the park and praise him for behaving well around children. If he acts agitated, calmly remove him from the area rather than give him negative feedback. He should associate children only with positive events.
Babies grow into toddlers, and toddlers invariably grab whatever is at hand. Sometimes that may be your poor pooch. Get him used to toddler behavior by giving him a few childlike pats and pulls as you give him a treat. Step up the treatment slowly. By the time your new baby becomes a toddler, he'll be used to anything.
The Big Day
Dogs experience the world through their noses. Arrange for a piece of the baby's clothing to be brought home from hospital before the baby herself. Let him sniff to his heart's content and praise him for being calm. When the baby comes home, greet your dog normally. The more naturally you behave, the more relaxed he'll stay.
Most dogs recognise the new little person as "pack," but they still need time to adjust to the changed family. Be patient and keep all interactions involving him and the baby positive. If he becomes agitated near the baby, separate them calmly and try again later. He'll reward your patience by becoming a loving friend and protector to your child.
Recent Articles
Thursday 30 June 2011
Tuesday 21 June 2011
Arthritis in dogs
In winter time owners of older pets may notice that their dog or cat seems a little stiff in the morning or that they seem to be “slowing down”. Many people put this down to “old age” but in reality their pet may be suffering in silence.
Osteoarthritis is a painful degenerative condition of the joints. It most commonly affects older pets, particularly large breed dogs, through long-term wear and tear. It can however occur at any age due to injury, anatomical defects (such as hip and elbow dysplasia), and less commonly infection and immune-mediated diseases.
It may be difficult to recognise the symptoms of arthritis, as animals won’t necessarily vocalise when painful. Signs of arthritic pain may include one or more of the following:
• “Slowing down” on walks
• Limping or stiffness
• Reluctance to play
• Grumpy or “touchy” when handled
• Reluctance to jump (e.g. into car, onto bed)
• Difficulty rising from rest
• Licking joints
A diagnosis of arthritis is often made on history and clinical examination of your pet. In some circumstances radiographs (x-rays) are needed to confirm the diagnosis or to assess for possible anatomical defects.
Treatment for arthritis is aimed at management rather than a cure. We need to reduce any discomfort and slow further progression of the disease. This is done in a multi-modal fashion, meaning we approach the problem from many different aspect and combine therapy, both at home and at the veterinary clinic, to achieve the best results.
What you can do at home:
Provide warm, soft bedding away from cold drafts. Consider using a rug or jacket for cold nights. Keeping the joints warm can reduce ‘stiffness’.
Exercise – short regular walks, rather than one long walk on weekends, encourages joint fluid circulation and nourishes cartilage.
Improving access – for example, using a ramp for larger dogs to walk into the car rather than having to jump up.
Nutritional supplements:
There are many over-the-counter products that have long been used for people suffering with arthritis and they are often beneficial for our pets as well!
Research is showing that omega-3 fatty acids, especially EPA, may be helpful in reducing the inflammation associated with arthritis. High levels of omega-3 fatty acids can be found in marine fish oil or flax seed oil. An average 20kg dog can benefit from 1000mg fish oil capsule daily.
Glucosamine (as glucosamine sulfate and glucosamine HCl) has great anecdotal and increasing scientific evidence of its benefits for arthritic patients. An ideal dose rate has not yet been determined, however 500mg for a 20kg dog is a rough guideline. Some studies suggest the liquid forms of glucosamine sulfate are better absorbed rather than the tablet forms. Glucosamine is often sold in combination with chondroitin and omega oils. Registered veterinary products include “Cosequin”, “JointGuard”, “Sasha’s Blend” and “Paws Osteo-Support”. There are also complete balanced dog foods for arthritic dogs that already contain these supplements such as Hills J/D Diet.
Veterinary Treatments:
Cartrophen Injections
Cartrophen (pentosan polysulfate) is classified as a chondroprotective (cartilage protective) agent and acts to slow down the progression of arthritis. It does this by stimulating the production of lubricating joint fluid and encouraging the repair of cartilage in the joint. The initial course is four injections at weekly intervals. Most dogs benefit from single boosters administered every four to twelve weeks. It is often used as a first-line treatment, due to the relative low cost and few side effects, however not all dogs respond to cartrophen alone.
Non-Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs (NSAIDs)
Oral medications such as Rimadyl, Metacam and Previcox are a prescription drug that can be used at home to control pain associated with inflamed, arthritic joints. These drugs have the benefit of providing strong pain relief to even severely affected dogs and can greatly improve the quality of life of our geriatric patients. They must however be used with caution as the disadvantage of NSAIDs are side effects such as gastrointestinal upset, less common but more severe gastric ulcers, liver and kidney damage. We recommend blood test monitoring of liver and kidney enzymes, especially in long-term use.
(Note: NEVER administer human anti-inflammatories to your pets, they can be toxic even at very low doses!)
Acupuncture is another therapy that is often well tolerated by pets and can provide relief.
Using a combination of these treatment methods will no doubt improve the quality of life for our arthritic pets. If you have any questions or would like your pet to be assessed for arthritis please do not hesitate to phone us at Warrandyte Veterinary Clinic on 9844 3071.
Written by Stuart Turner
Head Vet at The Warrandyte Vet Clinic
91 - 93 Melbourne Hill Road Warrandyte, VIC 3113
www.warrandytevet.com.au
Osteoarthritis is a painful degenerative condition of the joints. It most commonly affects older pets, particularly large breed dogs, through long-term wear and tear. It can however occur at any age due to injury, anatomical defects (such as hip and elbow dysplasia), and less commonly infection and immune-mediated diseases.
It may be difficult to recognise the symptoms of arthritis, as animals won’t necessarily vocalise when painful. Signs of arthritic pain may include one or more of the following:
• “Slowing down” on walks
• Limping or stiffness
• Reluctance to play
• Grumpy or “touchy” when handled
• Reluctance to jump (e.g. into car, onto bed)
• Difficulty rising from rest
• Licking joints
A diagnosis of arthritis is often made on history and clinical examination of your pet. In some circumstances radiographs (x-rays) are needed to confirm the diagnosis or to assess for possible anatomical defects.
Treatment for arthritis is aimed at management rather than a cure. We need to reduce any discomfort and slow further progression of the disease. This is done in a multi-modal fashion, meaning we approach the problem from many different aspect and combine therapy, both at home and at the veterinary clinic, to achieve the best results.
What you can do at home:
Provide warm, soft bedding away from cold drafts. Consider using a rug or jacket for cold nights. Keeping the joints warm can reduce ‘stiffness’.
Exercise – short regular walks, rather than one long walk on weekends, encourages joint fluid circulation and nourishes cartilage.
Improving access – for example, using a ramp for larger dogs to walk into the car rather than having to jump up.
Nutritional supplements:
There are many over-the-counter products that have long been used for people suffering with arthritis and they are often beneficial for our pets as well!
Research is showing that omega-3 fatty acids, especially EPA, may be helpful in reducing the inflammation associated with arthritis. High levels of omega-3 fatty acids can be found in marine fish oil or flax seed oil. An average 20kg dog can benefit from 1000mg fish oil capsule daily.
Glucosamine (as glucosamine sulfate and glucosamine HCl) has great anecdotal and increasing scientific evidence of its benefits for arthritic patients. An ideal dose rate has not yet been determined, however 500mg for a 20kg dog is a rough guideline. Some studies suggest the liquid forms of glucosamine sulfate are better absorbed rather than the tablet forms. Glucosamine is often sold in combination with chondroitin and omega oils. Registered veterinary products include “Cosequin”, “JointGuard”, “Sasha’s Blend” and “Paws Osteo-Support”. There are also complete balanced dog foods for arthritic dogs that already contain these supplements such as Hills J/D Diet.
Veterinary Treatments:
Cartrophen Injections
Cartrophen (pentosan polysulfate) is classified as a chondroprotective (cartilage protective) agent and acts to slow down the progression of arthritis. It does this by stimulating the production of lubricating joint fluid and encouraging the repair of cartilage in the joint. The initial course is four injections at weekly intervals. Most dogs benefit from single boosters administered every four to twelve weeks. It is often used as a first-line treatment, due to the relative low cost and few side effects, however not all dogs respond to cartrophen alone.
Non-Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs (NSAIDs)
Oral medications such as Rimadyl, Metacam and Previcox are a prescription drug that can be used at home to control pain associated with inflamed, arthritic joints. These drugs have the benefit of providing strong pain relief to even severely affected dogs and can greatly improve the quality of life of our geriatric patients. They must however be used with caution as the disadvantage of NSAIDs are side effects such as gastrointestinal upset, less common but more severe gastric ulcers, liver and kidney damage. We recommend blood test monitoring of liver and kidney enzymes, especially in long-term use.
(Note: NEVER administer human anti-inflammatories to your pets, they can be toxic even at very low doses!)
Acupuncture is another therapy that is often well tolerated by pets and can provide relief.
Using a combination of these treatment methods will no doubt improve the quality of life for our arthritic pets. If you have any questions or would like your pet to be assessed for arthritis please do not hesitate to phone us at Warrandyte Veterinary Clinic on 9844 3071.
Written by Stuart Turner
Head Vet at The Warrandyte Vet Clinic
91 - 93 Melbourne Hill Road Warrandyte, VIC 3113
www.warrandytevet.com.au
Monday 13 June 2011
Pound vs. Pet Shop
Selection
Those who want to adopt a particular breed of dog may look to pet shops first. Shops sell a wide selection of purebred puppies. Adopting from a pet shop is in many ways like purchasing a new off-the-rack handbag, albeit one who wags and woofs. The animals are largely identical within their breeds: almost exclusively young, energetic and highly appealing. Like handbags, pet stock moves into and out of the shop quickly. This high turnover rate means that pet shop workers may not get to know individual animals well.
The local RSPCA also deals with pure breeds. Both the RSPCA and Lort Smith Animal Hospital also feature a number of purebred crosses. They may never appear in dog shows, but crosses can make wonderful pets. The RSPCA features a lifestyle colour code to describe each animal's unique needs, while Lort Smith describes each pet's personality. Adopting from a shelter is more akin to shopping for vintage clothing; while the selection is smaller, that rare find can mean true love.
Health
A pet shop puppy usually comes with a money-back guarantee of good health. While these young animals are full of vigour, few adoptive households have reason to make use of such a guarantee. However, the demand for certain breeds is so high that some breeders over-produce them, leading to potential genetic weaknesses that appear only with age.
Shelters typically paint a more realistic picture of the animal's state of health. Older dogs and those with health problems bear clear labels on their charts. It takes an exceptionally big heart to adopt an animal with special medical needs or one who has little time left, but shelters are unflinchingly honest about informing adoptive households of any known health concerns.
Cost
Pet shops' prices vary by breed; shelter adoptions generally have flat fees. Part of a pet shop's cost is in papers, and for those who require a purebred pet, that pedigree is worth the price. Many shelter animals have more dubious lineage. However, many families find that having a dog who simply looks like a chihuahua is just as good as having one with paperwork to prove it.
Time
Many shelters have a waiting period, background check or interview before releasing a dog for adoption. Pet shops typically sell that day, which is a plus for anyone who wants to surprise the family with a new companion. The interview process that pounds and shelters require may help find a better fit between household and pet if time is not of the essence.
Sunday 5 June 2011
Three's a Crowd?
The Nose Knows
A dog's sense of smell is so keen that humans can only imagine the sheer volume of information a dog gleans from worn clothing or bed linen. Dogs become confused when their "pack leader" declares an area that smells so strongly of security and comfort off-limits to them. It's therefore vital to supply the dog with a space of his own that still retains a connection with his pack. The presence of his pack reassures him, but he'll settle for their scent. Remove a used pillowcase from the bed and place it in the dog's bed. He'll gravitate to it like a toddler to a security blanket.
Comfort Is Key
Ensure that the dog has a comfortable bed. He doesn't like a scratchy, smelly old bump of a bed any more than a person would, so treat him to a designated doggie bed. Observe his favourite sleeping positions and choose a bed that suits his style: a long pillow for a sprawling sleeper or a cup-shaped bed for a curled-up pup. Keep the bed in one of his preferred napping spots if possible and he will naturally begin to sleep there, especially if the bed smells enticingly like his pack.
All Night Long
Dogs may try to sneak into bed with their people if they're accustomed to sharing a bed. It may take a few nights of waking up, leading the dog back to his own bed, and offering praise once he settles in before he takes the hint. Avoid food rewards for these nocturnal lessons, though, lest he learn that waking the household by jumping onto beds earns him a midnight snack.
Paper Training
If a dog is still reticent to sleep in his own bed despite plenty of positive reinforcement, try placing a layer of parchment paper on the bed when it is not in use. He won't like the slick paper under his feet, but he won't feel snubbed the way he might if his pack leader chased him off with a "No!" He may wonder why people would choose to sleep with rustling stuff when they could have a nice cushion on the floor to call their own, but he'll stay off the bed.
A dog's sense of smell is so keen that humans can only imagine the sheer volume of information a dog gleans from worn clothing or bed linen. Dogs become confused when their "pack leader" declares an area that smells so strongly of security and comfort off-limits to them. It's therefore vital to supply the dog with a space of his own that still retains a connection with his pack. The presence of his pack reassures him, but he'll settle for their scent. Remove a used pillowcase from the bed and place it in the dog's bed. He'll gravitate to it like a toddler to a security blanket.
Comfort Is Key
Ensure that the dog has a comfortable bed. He doesn't like a scratchy, smelly old bump of a bed any more than a person would, so treat him to a designated doggie bed. Observe his favourite sleeping positions and choose a bed that suits his style: a long pillow for a sprawling sleeper or a cup-shaped bed for a curled-up pup. Keep the bed in one of his preferred napping spots if possible and he will naturally begin to sleep there, especially if the bed smells enticingly like his pack.
All Night Long
Dogs may try to sneak into bed with their people if they're accustomed to sharing a bed. It may take a few nights of waking up, leading the dog back to his own bed, and offering praise once he settles in before he takes the hint. Avoid food rewards for these nocturnal lessons, though, lest he learn that waking the household by jumping onto beds earns him a midnight snack.
Paper Training
If a dog is still reticent to sleep in his own bed despite plenty of positive reinforcement, try placing a layer of parchment paper on the bed when it is not in use. He won't like the slick paper under his feet, but he won't feel snubbed the way he might if his pack leader chased him off with a "No!" He may wonder why people would choose to sleep with rustling stuff when they could have a nice cushion on the floor to call their own, but he'll stay off the bed.
Monday 30 May 2011
Train your dog to walk off-lead
Walking a dog is a pleasant and healthy activity for both the animal and the pet owner. Training a dog to walk off-lead can make this an even more enjoyable activity by allowing the pet more freedom and exercise. There are a few important steps needed to teach a dog to be off-lead and ensure its safety.
Before beginning training without a lead, it is vital that the dog be familiar with a few basic commands. It should be trained to come when called to help prevent it from running off and injuring itself or bystanders. A dog should also be used to wearing a lead as well as either a collar or harness.
Once the dog is ready, one can begin training it to walk properly on a lead. Using an adjustable lead will make the training process much simpler. When beginning training, the lead should be on its shortest setting to provide the pet owner with maximum control. The command “heel” should be used frequently throughout the training process. Most dogs will soon learn to walk along without lunging or pulling. At this stage, the dog should be exposed to an array of potentially distracting or frightening objects and situations. Exposure to people, other dogs, cars, equipment and other such things will teach the animal not to be afraid and that the rules apply in all environments.
As the dog’s “walking manners” improve, the lead can gradually be lengthened. If at any time the animal returns to its previous bad habits, the lead should be shortened to the previous setting. The commands “heel” and “come” should also be reviewed.
When the pet is walking without any problems on the longest setting, it is time to practice without the lead. Take it to a safe, enclosed area to practice, such as a dog park or enclosed yard. Remove the lead and allow the dog to explore. At first only allow the exploration to continue for a short time before calling the dog back. Praise and reward the dog when it returns. If it does not return, do not hit the dog when it’s caught, as this will just encourage it to run. One can gradually allow the dog to roam further and for longer periods of time as it learns.
Scotch LeSamoyed
Before beginning training without a lead, it is vital that the dog be familiar with a few basic commands. It should be trained to come when called to help prevent it from running off and injuring itself or bystanders. A dog should also be used to wearing a lead as well as either a collar or harness.
Once the dog is ready, one can begin training it to walk properly on a lead. Using an adjustable lead will make the training process much simpler. When beginning training, the lead should be on its shortest setting to provide the pet owner with maximum control. The command “heel” should be used frequently throughout the training process. Most dogs will soon learn to walk along without lunging or pulling. At this stage, the dog should be exposed to an array of potentially distracting or frightening objects and situations. Exposure to people, other dogs, cars, equipment and other such things will teach the animal not to be afraid and that the rules apply in all environments.
As the dog’s “walking manners” improve, the lead can gradually be lengthened. If at any time the animal returns to its previous bad habits, the lead should be shortened to the previous setting. The commands “heel” and “come” should also be reviewed.
When the pet is walking without any problems on the longest setting, it is time to practice without the lead. Take it to a safe, enclosed area to practice, such as a dog park or enclosed yard. Remove the lead and allow the dog to explore. At first only allow the exploration to continue for a short time before calling the dog back. Praise and reward the dog when it returns. If it does not return, do not hit the dog when it’s caught, as this will just encourage it to run. One can gradually allow the dog to roam further and for longer periods of time as it learns.
Scotch LeSamoyed
Monday 23 May 2011
How to Stop Your Dog Barking
Just as a mum becomes a little embarrassed when her child decides to throw a temper tantrum in the presence of strangers, pet owners can suffer a bit of mortification when their dog always greets visitors with a frenzy of barking, especially if good friends or neighbors are involved. Truthfully, although barking is instinctive, it is also a learned behavior that can be redirected when owners take the time and effort to retrain their otherwise lovable canine.
Take Time for Friends
Your protective friend barks for a variety of reasons, and some are good, but to prevent barking at inappropriate times, the dog will need some socialization with frequent visitors. Pet owners should take the time to slowly introduce friends and relatives who will be entering the house periodically. You should also give your best friend time to adjust to neighbors, children playing on bikes or scooters, and delivery men. Always keep your dog on a leash during a first introduction. Let the visitor share a treat, and let your dog get a good scent. As the relationship progresses, the visitor may progress to gentle petting until your dog appears comfortable enough to be unleashed. Once the he or she doesn't feel threatened, it's time to move to the actual training procedure.
Hush Puppy
Although there are many options for teaching a dog to stop barking when someone knocks on the door or passes in the street, most owners prefer the gentlest method possible. The following method works for most breeds:
Repetition is the key and with incremental improvements your dog will be quetly greeting you and your friends in no time.
Take Time for Friends
Your protective friend barks for a variety of reasons, and some are good, but to prevent barking at inappropriate times, the dog will need some socialization with frequent visitors. Pet owners should take the time to slowly introduce friends and relatives who will be entering the house periodically. You should also give your best friend time to adjust to neighbors, children playing on bikes or scooters, and delivery men. Always keep your dog on a leash during a first introduction. Let the visitor share a treat, and let your dog get a good scent. As the relationship progresses, the visitor may progress to gentle petting until your dog appears comfortable enough to be unleashed. Once the he or she doesn't feel threatened, it's time to move to the actual training procedure.
Hush Puppy
Although there are many options for teaching a dog to stop barking when someone knocks on the door or passes in the street, most owners prefer the gentlest method possible. The following method works for most breeds:
- Use a single word to give the command to cease barking. This might be “hush,” “quiet,” or “silent,” but it should not be a command that is used for other directions.
- With the dog on a leash, have a friend come to the door. If barking begins, firmly use the word while giving a pull on the leash low to the floor.
- Praise the dog if it stops barking, using the same words that are always used when it has performed well. It may be best not to give a doggy treat because this could lead to the dog barking just to get the treat for stopping the behavior.
- Repeatedly performing this maneuver may be all that is necessary for some dogs to get the idea that barking at certain times is not appropriate.
Repetition is the key and with incremental improvements your dog will be quetly greeting you and your friends in no time.
Sunday 15 May 2011
Puppy Socialisation
Socialisation is just another way of talking about your dog learning how to be a dog. It’s a bit like raising a human child. Humans have to know certain things to get along in society – manners, how to meet new people, how to handle new experiences. Dogs need the same kind of training.
Mum starts the job of teaching a puppy how to behave, but once she’s out of the picture humans have to take over. If it’s done right, you end up with a polite dog that is easy to be around. If not, then you’re in for barking, torn-up furniture, pulling at the lead – even biting. But getting it right isn’t hard.
Socialisation occurs within the first 16 weeks of a dog’s life. During this time a puppy needs to encounter new sights, sounds and smells in order to learn what they mean and how to react to them. Every new experience is an education, whether it’s meeting another puppy or hearing a loud noise.
Dogs are social animals. They enjoy being around humans and around other dogs. Use this natural tendency to get the behaviour you want. Never punish a dog for not getting along with others. Just remove him from the situation. He’ll soon learn that if he doesn’t play nicely, he doesn’t get to play at all.
Stay calm. Your puppy looks to you for guidance. If you are nervous, your dog will be, too. If things go wrong in a play session with other dogs, don’t panic. Just take him for a walk to calm down. Walking is also a good way to burn off excess energy.
Play is excellent training. Use different types of toys. Handle your puppy during playtime, so he gets used to human contact.
Let him explore the house or garden on his own. This will give him the confidence he needs to be a happy dog later on.
At first, introduce your puppy to strange dogs in a controlled environment, such as a dog park or care facility. Avoid distractions such as traffic, crowds or loud noises. After he’s used to meeting new dogs and new people, try taking walks in busier areas where he will meet even more dogs and their humans.
Children don’t behave well if they don’t know what’s expected of them. It’s the same for pups. If you take the time and effort in these first few months, you’ll end up with a dog that is calm, happy and a pleasure to be around.
Mum starts the job of teaching a puppy how to behave, but once she’s out of the picture humans have to take over. If it’s done right, you end up with a polite dog that is easy to be around. If not, then you’re in for barking, torn-up furniture, pulling at the lead – even biting. But getting it right isn’t hard.
Socialisation occurs within the first 16 weeks of a dog’s life. During this time a puppy needs to encounter new sights, sounds and smells in order to learn what they mean and how to react to them. Every new experience is an education, whether it’s meeting another puppy or hearing a loud noise.
Dogs are social animals. They enjoy being around humans and around other dogs. Use this natural tendency to get the behaviour you want. Never punish a dog for not getting along with others. Just remove him from the situation. He’ll soon learn that if he doesn’t play nicely, he doesn’t get to play at all.
Stay calm. Your puppy looks to you for guidance. If you are nervous, your dog will be, too. If things go wrong in a play session with other dogs, don’t panic. Just take him for a walk to calm down. Walking is also a good way to burn off excess energy.
Play is excellent training. Use different types of toys. Handle your puppy during playtime, so he gets used to human contact.
Let him explore the house or garden on his own. This will give him the confidence he needs to be a happy dog later on.
At first, introduce your puppy to strange dogs in a controlled environment, such as a dog park or care facility. Avoid distractions such as traffic, crowds or loud noises. After he’s used to meeting new dogs and new people, try taking walks in busier areas where he will meet even more dogs and their humans.
Children don’t behave well if they don’t know what’s expected of them. It’s the same for pups. If you take the time and effort in these first few months, you’ll end up with a dog that is calm, happy and a pleasure to be around.
Wednesday 4 May 2011
Communicate with your dog like Dr Dolittle
Even if he's small enough to fit in a handbag, the friendly household pet dog you know and love has a mighty wolf pack in his ancestry. Dogs never entirely lose their affinity for the pack. Understanding social cues is vital for a wolf's survival; your dog has kept his ability to read the pack's emotions from body language and audible feedback. Now that he lives with you, you represent the pack leader and can learn how to communicate with your dog in his own native language.
The Tale of the Tail
Humans' expressive faces communicate volumes of information, but dogs' facial repertoire of emotions is smaller. However, they have a communication device that people don't: a tail. Many dog owners mistake a wagging tail for an unequivocal sign of happiness, but the tail's tale is more complex than that. Wagging can also signify insecurity, a need for reassurance, or indecision.
If the rest of your dog's body expresses a sentence, then the tail is the punctuation. A relaxed body, perky ears, and an elevated wagging tail means "I'm glad to see you." Whole-body wagging with jumping or a few yelps means, "I'm so happy you're home!" A lowered, tucked tail and pinned ears means, "Are you sure this is safe?"
You can't send signals back with your own tail, but you can read your dog's tail and treat him accordingly. Play with him when he holds his tail aloft like a banner and reassure him when his tail is tucked. When he holds his tail parallel to his body in a relaxed, neutral position, he'll be most receptive to a pat or a kind word.
Eye Contact
To a person, prolonged eye contact can be anything from adoring to threatening. For dogs, the signal is less ambiguous: a stare is aggressive to a dog. Pack leaders will stare down animals of lower social status to underscore their own dominance. Knowing this will help you deliver a more emphatic lesson; fix him with a stern look when you correct his behavior and you'll find it more effective than raising your voice.
Watch how your dog watches you. You'll probably notice that he glances at you, then away, then back again rather than maintaining eye contact. Try the same pattern of glancing looks if you want to put him at ease. Your dog will appreciate your courtesy even if he can't tell you so directly.
Body Language
Alpha dogs assert their dominance physically with taps or nips to another dog's shoulders or flanks. While you don't want to nip your dog, you should know that resting your chin on your dog's shoulders or draping an arm over him sends the signal that you are the pack leader. It's an affectionate display of dominance, so your dog may respond with an equally affectionate sign of submission--licking your face.
Rolling onto his back and presenting you with his belly is an invitation to scratch his tummy, but your dog is also showing you how much he trusts you as his alpha dog. It's a vulnerable position that dogs rarely adopt unless they feel comfortable.
Try giving your dog a "play bow" and see how he responds. Dogs and wolves alike use this posture--rump up, front legs stretched out to lower the front half of the body--as an invitation to play. You might feel a bit silly with your tail up and your arms outstretched, but your dog will be charmed at your attempt to speak his language.
The Tale of the Tail
Humans' expressive faces communicate volumes of information, but dogs' facial repertoire of emotions is smaller. However, they have a communication device that people don't: a tail. Many dog owners mistake a wagging tail for an unequivocal sign of happiness, but the tail's tale is more complex than that. Wagging can also signify insecurity, a need for reassurance, or indecision.
If the rest of your dog's body expresses a sentence, then the tail is the punctuation. A relaxed body, perky ears, and an elevated wagging tail means "I'm glad to see you." Whole-body wagging with jumping or a few yelps means, "I'm so happy you're home!" A lowered, tucked tail and pinned ears means, "Are you sure this is safe?"
You can't send signals back with your own tail, but you can read your dog's tail and treat him accordingly. Play with him when he holds his tail aloft like a banner and reassure him when his tail is tucked. When he holds his tail parallel to his body in a relaxed, neutral position, he'll be most receptive to a pat or a kind word.
Eye Contact
To a person, prolonged eye contact can be anything from adoring to threatening. For dogs, the signal is less ambiguous: a stare is aggressive to a dog. Pack leaders will stare down animals of lower social status to underscore their own dominance. Knowing this will help you deliver a more emphatic lesson; fix him with a stern look when you correct his behavior and you'll find it more effective than raising your voice.
Watch how your dog watches you. You'll probably notice that he glances at you, then away, then back again rather than maintaining eye contact. Try the same pattern of glancing looks if you want to put him at ease. Your dog will appreciate your courtesy even if he can't tell you so directly.
Body Language
Alpha dogs assert their dominance physically with taps or nips to another dog's shoulders or flanks. While you don't want to nip your dog, you should know that resting your chin on your dog's shoulders or draping an arm over him sends the signal that you are the pack leader. It's an affectionate display of dominance, so your dog may respond with an equally affectionate sign of submission--licking your face.
Rolling onto his back and presenting you with his belly is an invitation to scratch his tummy, but your dog is also showing you how much he trusts you as his alpha dog. It's a vulnerable position that dogs rarely adopt unless they feel comfortable.
Try giving your dog a "play bow" and see how he responds. Dogs and wolves alike use this posture--rump up, front legs stretched out to lower the front half of the body--as an invitation to play. You might feel a bit silly with your tail up and your arms outstretched, but your dog will be charmed at your attempt to speak his language.
Friday 29 April 2011
How to toilet train your puppy
Most people dread toilet training their puppy, but it doesn’t have to be hard. You just have to use the right method. The first thing you need to realize is that puppies can't understand what you say. Some of my mates think the human word for mess is "bad dog". So don't shout. It only makes things worse. A puppy is too busy exploring the world to pay attention to what his back end is doing. You'll have to keep track of that for him.
Start out by limiting the potential for damage. Don't let your puppy wander freely about the house. Instead, set up a doggie zone in a room where the floor is easy to clean. Be sure to provide bedding, water and plenty of toys. The bed is important. We don't like to do our business where we sleep.
Now it's time to get to work. Pick a place for your dog to go. This can be a corner of the garden, or any other area that is easy to get to. Never play with your dog here. This spot is strictly for business.
Take your puppy to his toilet area several times a day. You can use a command to tell your dog what's wanted. This helps reinforce the right behavior. Be sure to say it when you first arrive at the toilet area and repeat it when the puppy does what you want. Young dogs can be slow on the uptake, but they eventually get the idea.
Praise your dog when he's finished, and take him back to his toys for some playtime. This makes toilet training just another part of the day rather than a stressful experience. Don't expect immediate success. Puppies don't have much control and accidents will happen. That's why you have a doggie zone.
Watch for signs that your puppy needs to go. This will be first thing in the morning, immediately after meals, and right before bedtime. Very young dogs should go to their toilet area every hour or two. To avoid nighttime accidents, take the puppy's water away when you go to bed and take the dog out once or twice during the night. Put the water back in the morning to avoid dehydration.
Puppies are babies, and they take a lot of work. The good news is we dogs grow up fast. It won't be long before your dog is as well trained as any other member of the family.
Start out by limiting the potential for damage. Don't let your puppy wander freely about the house. Instead, set up a doggie zone in a room where the floor is easy to clean. Be sure to provide bedding, water and plenty of toys. The bed is important. We don't like to do our business where we sleep.
Now it's time to get to work. Pick a place for your dog to go. This can be a corner of the garden, or any other area that is easy to get to. Never play with your dog here. This spot is strictly for business.
Take your puppy to his toilet area several times a day. You can use a command to tell your dog what's wanted. This helps reinforce the right behavior. Be sure to say it when you first arrive at the toilet area and repeat it when the puppy does what you want. Young dogs can be slow on the uptake, but they eventually get the idea.
Praise your dog when he's finished, and take him back to his toys for some playtime. This makes toilet training just another part of the day rather than a stressful experience. Don't expect immediate success. Puppies don't have much control and accidents will happen. That's why you have a doggie zone.
Watch for signs that your puppy needs to go. This will be first thing in the morning, immediately after meals, and right before bedtime. Very young dogs should go to their toilet area every hour or two. To avoid nighttime accidents, take the puppy's water away when you go to bed and take the dog out once or twice during the night. Put the water back in the morning to avoid dehydration.
Puppies are babies, and they take a lot of work. The good news is we dogs grow up fast. It won't be long before your dog is as well trained as any other member of the family.
Tuesday 26 April 2011
Selecting the right dog for you and your family
Hi, everybody! For those of you that don't know me, my name is Scotch. Today, I want to talk to you about an issue that is very important to me -- selecting the right dog for your family. I, myself was very fortunate to be adopted by a wonderful and loving family, but a lot of dogs aren't as lucky as me. It's not because they were bad dogs or the owners were bad people, but because the two just were not compatible. Sometimes these things happen, but in the end, it's usually my pals and I that get hurt.
The first thing that you humans have to understand is that we dogs are like you guys in more ways that you know. Each of us has different personalities and temperaments that make us special and unique. For instance, I'm more of an easy going, laid back dog, while my cousin Spot is high strung and barks at everything. Obviously, Spot wouldn't be happy living in a home where he was forced to be quiet all day and didn't get the attention that he wants. Buying a dog is kind of like finding your boyfriend or girlfriend. You have to find someone that is compatible with your lifestyle or things can go bad quickly.
Another thing that you need to watch out for when buying a puppy is how big we may get in the future. A lot of people see us as puppies and underestimate how big we'll grow in the months to come. Do a little research first before buying one of us to make sure that you'll have room for us when we finish growing up.
There are also some practical issues that you need to consider before adopting one of us. We're like little kids and you'll be responsible for taking care of us including feeding, grooming, and taking us to the veterinarian. Dog food can be expensive, so if you are on a tight budget, you might not want to adopt a dog like my cousin Cookie who is a big dog and likes to eat everything in sight. Instead, you might want to pick a smaller dog that doesn't need to eat as much. A lot of us also like looking as good as we can by taking a trip to the groomer. My cousin Queenie, who has long hair, needs to go several times a year to keep her coat looking fabulous. Then you have my other cousin, Rex that doesn't need to go at all. I like to call dogs that have a lot of hair high maintenance, while those with shorter coats are lower maintenance dogs. A final practical concern that you'll have to deal with is our health. We get sick like you guys and need routine checkups to make sure we're healthy and happy. On top of that, some breeds have a predisposition to developing certain diseases and conditions. I'm not saying that every dog of a certain breed will have issues, but that you should be aware of any potential problems that might pop up in the future.
Now that I've finished with the lecture, what are you waiting for? Go out and adopt a dog!
Scotch LeSamoyed
The first thing that you humans have to understand is that we dogs are like you guys in more ways that you know. Each of us has different personalities and temperaments that make us special and unique. For instance, I'm more of an easy going, laid back dog, while my cousin Spot is high strung and barks at everything. Obviously, Spot wouldn't be happy living in a home where he was forced to be quiet all day and didn't get the attention that he wants. Buying a dog is kind of like finding your boyfriend or girlfriend. You have to find someone that is compatible with your lifestyle or things can go bad quickly.
Another thing that you need to watch out for when buying a puppy is how big we may get in the future. A lot of people see us as puppies and underestimate how big we'll grow in the months to come. Do a little research first before buying one of us to make sure that you'll have room for us when we finish growing up.
There are also some practical issues that you need to consider before adopting one of us. We're like little kids and you'll be responsible for taking care of us including feeding, grooming, and taking us to the veterinarian. Dog food can be expensive, so if you are on a tight budget, you might not want to adopt a dog like my cousin Cookie who is a big dog and likes to eat everything in sight. Instead, you might want to pick a smaller dog that doesn't need to eat as much. A lot of us also like looking as good as we can by taking a trip to the groomer. My cousin Queenie, who has long hair, needs to go several times a year to keep her coat looking fabulous. Then you have my other cousin, Rex that doesn't need to go at all. I like to call dogs that have a lot of hair high maintenance, while those with shorter coats are lower maintenance dogs. A final practical concern that you'll have to deal with is our health. We get sick like you guys and need routine checkups to make sure we're healthy and happy. On top of that, some breeds have a predisposition to developing certain diseases and conditions. I'm not saying that every dog of a certain breed will have issues, but that you should be aware of any potential problems that might pop up in the future.
Now that I've finished with the lecture, what are you waiting for? Go out and adopt a dog!
Scotch LeSamoyed
Monday 18 April 2011
Greetings from Scotch!
Hi there. This is Scotch, but I have pals all over the world that go by so many names. I've got a cousin named Spot, a nephew who sports the moniker King, another cousin named Cookie, another cousin we call Queenie, and another cousin named Rex. It goes on from there, but I can lose track of things quick so I'll try to stay focused. Do you smell bacon?
been and just wanted to remind everyone just how much we love you. While you are out all day hunting for food, I'm at home not doing much of anything. You say you were only gone a minute. Well, it seems like seven to me. It's as if a whole week goes by when it's a work day. That's why I shake my tail off and dance like a fool when you get back. Plus, it's a holdover from my puppy days. It's what my wild cousins had to do to get fed when the rest of the family got back. Pups would nip and lick at the mouths of the adults so they would regurgitate some food for them. By the way, I notice you have never done that for me. I forgive you though since you bring home the goodies in bags, boxes and cans. Are you sure you don't smell bacon?
I've been looking forward to a time when you and I can go smell some things together. Since you only have two legs, I understand it is difficult for you to keep up. However, I am surprised at your limited attention span. I can sniff a spot until my nose hurts and you just want to go on to the next spot. Really, why is that? I must say that I am quite impressed with your nose though. I like to get right up on the spot and sniff until there is nothing left. You don't even have to bend over! That is quite impressive.
I've been busy too. I'm still trying to work out which soft things I can sleep on and which ones I can't. I've been studying which things made out of hide I can chew and which ones I can't. I don't really see a difference between leather shoes and rawhide chew, but I guess you do. I appreciate your patience. I've been trying to remember the thing about what is mine and what is yours too. Where I come from, what is mine is mine, and if you walk away from yours, well then it's mine too. If you wanted to keep it, you should have buried it somewhere. Unless it is bacon, then it is always mine.
Written By:
Scotch LeSamoyed
For more about Hop & Scotch go to http://www.hopandscotch.com/
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